Guide to Constructing Raise Ranges Against Check-Raise

Position Scenario

Assume we raise first from the button (BTN) and the big blind (BB) calls. After the flop is dealt, we make a continuation bet of about 2/3 of the pot, and the BB player chooses to check-raise. As the initial aggressor, we need to decide whether to raise (i.e., 3-bet) the opponent's check-raise, call, or fold. This article focuses on the raising scenario, providing recommended ranges and construction logic.

Recommended Range (Hand Types)

Value Raise

• Strong Made Hands: Top pair top kicker (TPTK) or better, e.g., flop is K♠8♦3♣, we have KQo or KJs. Note that TPTK is usually the lower bound for a value raise, but if the board is wet or has straight draws, we need stronger holdings.
• Two Pair or Better: For example, we hit bottom two pair or trips, clear value raise.
• Draw + Made Hand Combos: E.g., top pair plus flush draw, such as K♣Q♣ on a K♠8♣3♣ board.

Bluff Raise

• Strong Draws: Straight flush draws, open-ended straight draws, flush draws with overcards, etc. For example, flop 9♦7♥4♠, we hold 6♣5♣ (open-ended straight draw) or J♣10♣ (flush + straight draw).
• Backdoor Draw Combos: For example, backdoor flush + backdoor straight draw with overcards, can consider semi-bluff raising.
• Weak Made Hands Turned Bluffs: Sometimes we raise with bottom pair or middle pair to try to force the opponent to fold better high cards or weak draws, but this should be done selectively in spots where the opponent's fold equity is high.

Note: The above ranges are not rigid; they need to be adjusted based on the specific flop structure and opponent tendencies.

Range Construction Logic

The core principle is polarization: the ratio of value raise hands to bluff raise hands should be balanced to avoid predictability. Generally, value raise hands account for about 50%-60% of all raising hands, with the remainder being bluff raises.

• Value Lower Bound: Usually set at TPTK+. On a dry board (e.g., A♠8♦2♣), TPTK can be a clear value raise; on a wet board (e.g., 9♥8♠7♥), TPTK may only be a bluff catcher, and stronger holdings (like top pair top kicker + flush draw) are needed for a value raise.
• Bluff Selection: Prioritize hands with blocker effects, e.g., we hold a key card that blocks the opponent's potential strong hands (like blocking opponent's top pair or straight draw), while also having improvement potential (draw). Avoid using hands with no improvement potential (like pure garbage), because if called after the raise, it will be difficult to continue on later streets.

Adjustment Factors

• Opponent Tendencies: If the opponent check-raises frequently (high aggression), we can widen our value raise range and increase bluffs; if the opponent rarely check-raises (low aggression), we should respect their value-heavy range and tighten our raising range, opting more for calling or folding.
• Flop Structure:
  • Dry Board (e.g., K♠7♦2♣): The opponent's check-raise often represents a strong hand (usually KQ+), so our raising range should lean toward value, with fewer bluffs.
  • Wet Board (e.g., J♠10♠8♣): The opponent may check-raise with many draws, so we can raise with very strong hands and also semi-bluff with more draws.
• Stack Depth: With deep effective stacks (>100BB), we can raise more aggressively, especially bluff raises allowing larger bet sizes; with shallow stacks (<50BB), raising often leads to all-in, so bluff raises become riskier, and we should use more value hands.
• Position: When we are in position (BTN vs BB), raising closes the action, allowing more freedom. When out of position (e.g., BB vs BTN), raising should be more cautious because of the positional disadvantage on later streets.

GTO Reference

From a GTO perspective, facing a check-raise, the ideal raising frequency is about 20%-30% of our total continuation betting range. For example, if we have a total of 100 combos in our flop c-bet range, then we should raise with about 20-30 combos, with a value-to-bluff ratio of roughly 2:1 or 1:1, depending on board texture.

Example scenario: Flop K♠8♦3♣, our BTN continuation betting range includes: {AK, KQ, KJs, KTs, AA, QQ, JJ, 99, various draws, etc.}. Facing a check-raise, the combos we choose to raise might be:

• Value: AK (all 4 combos), KQ (some, e.g., KQs), AA (some), two pair+ (rare). About 10-12 value combos.
• Bluff: A♣X♣ with backdoor flush draws (e.g., A♣4♣), and some open-ended straight draws (e.g., QTs, JTs), about 5-8 combos. Total 15-20 combos, about 25% of the total c-bet range.

Practical Application

1. Identify the Spot: After you make a continuation bet on the flop and the opponent check-raises, first determine whether your hand is a value hand, a draw, or a junk hand.
2. Decision Tree:
   • If the hand strength is above TPTK, usually raise. But note the board: on a dry A-high board, AK can be raised directly; on a wet board, two pair or better is safe to raise.
   • If the hand is a strong draw (e.g., open-ended straight or flush+straight), and the opponent has fold equity, confidently semi-bluff raise.
   • If the hand is a weak made hand (e.g., bottom pair, top pair with weak kicker), usually choose to call or fold, avoiding raising and getting trapped.
3. Bet Sizing: The raise size is usually 2.5-3.5 times the opponent's bet (check-raise). For example, if the opponent bets 3BB, we raise to 8-10BB. The deeper the stacks, the larger the size can be.
4. Follow-Up Plan: After raising, if the opponent calls, decide on the turn based on board changes whether to continue betting. Value hands should generally continue on most turns; bluff hands should usually give up if they miss.

Remember: Building a balanced raise range is key to long-term profitability. Being too aggressive exposes weaknesses, while being too passive fails to exploit. It is recommended to record your raise frequency in practice and compare it with GTO references to gradually optimize.