Poker Term

Ace to Five Triple Draw Starting Hands

Ace to Five Triple Draw Starting Hands

Starting hands in Ace-to-Five Triple Draw, a lowball poker variant where the best hand is A-2-3-4-5 (a wheel), and hands are evaluated by their lowest high card, with draws typically aiming for a smooth 7 or better.

Overview

Ace-to-Five Triple Draw (A-5TD) is a lowball poker variant where the goal is to make the lowest possible five-card hand, with Aces counting as low and straights/flushes not counting against the hand (i.e., they are considered low). The best hand is A-2-3-4-5 (a "wheel" or "bicycle"), followed by 2-3-4-5-6, etc. Starting hand selection is critical because the game allows three draws, meaning a hand that appears weak on first deal can improve significantly, but starting with a poor hand can be costly.

Starting Hand Categories

Pat Hands

Pat hands require no draws and are already strong. Examples include:

  • Wheel (A-2-3-4-5): The best possible hand, almost always a winner.
  • 6-high (2-3-4-5-6): Very strong, especially if smooth (no duplicate suits or gaps).
  • 7-high (2-3-4-5-7): Good but vulnerable against draws; often playable.
  • 8-high (2-3-4-5-8): Marginal; prone to being overtaken by draws.

Drawing Hands

These hands need one or more cards to become pat. They are evaluated by their "smoothness"—how low the possible final hand can be. Key examples:

  • One-card draws: e.g., A-2-3-4-X, where X is a high card or a card that could pair. The goal is to draw to a wheel or 6-high. A-2-3-4 is the best one-card draw (usually drawing to a wheel or 6 if the wheel is already made).
  • Two-card draws: e.g., A-2-3-X-Y. Less desirable but playable in late position or against weak opponents.
  • Three-card draws: e.g., A-2-X-Y-Z. Typically unprofitable unless the hand is very smooth (e.g., A-2-3) and the pot is multi-way.

Bad Hands

Hands with high cards (9 or above) or pairs are usually folded pre-draw, especially early position. For example, K-9-7-5-3 is terrible because it cannot improve to a low hand without drawing multiple cards, and even if it does, the result often has a high card.

Position and Number of Players

Starting hand requirements tighten in early position (under the gun) and loosen in late position (cutoff, button). Against many players, tighter hand selection is wise because the chance of running into a better hand increases. Heads-up or short-handed, many more hands become playable, including weaker one-card draws and some two-card draws.

Common Mistakes

  • Overvaluing high cards: A hand like A-2-3-K-Q seems promising but the K and Q are worthless; it's a one-card draw to a 6-high at best, and often you draw to a 7 or 8.
  • Playing too many pat 8s: An 8-high is often outdrawn by opponents with draws; consider the texture: a smooth 8 (e.g., 2-3-4-5-8) is better than a rough 8 (e.g., 2-3-6-7-8).
  • Ignoring blockers: Holding an A or 2 in your hand reduces the chance your opponent makes a wheel, which can be advantageous.

Strategy Tips

  • In early position, only play pat hands 7 or better, or the best one-card draws (A-2-3-4, A-2-3-5, A-2-4-5, 2-3-4-5).
  • In late position, expand to include pat 8s (especially smooth) and one-card draws with a 6 or 7 as the potential high card.
  • Always consider the number of draws left: if you have a one-card draw to a 7, you have three chances to hit it (about 40% success with 1 draw, 60% with 2, 75% with 3).

Example

Suppose you are dealt A♠2♥3♣7♦9♠. This is a one-card draw to a 7 (discard the 9). It's a playable hand in most positions but not premium. If the pot is unraised and you are on the button, a call or raise is fine; in early position, a fold may be safer if the game is tight.

Conclusion

Mastering starting hands in Ace-to-Five Triple Draw is about understanding hand values, position, and draw potential. The best hands are pat wheels and sixes; the best draws are those with three low cards (A-2-3) or four low cards (A-2-3-4). Avoid marginal pat eights and weak one-card draws, especially out of position.

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